Hitting the Bullseye in Bhutan

Archery is the national sport of Bhutan
Archery is the national sport of Bhutan.

Dancing about and shouting sexual insults at the opposing team, Bhutanese sports fans enjoy their favorite pastime—archery!

Archery? It may seem counter intuitive for a devoutly Buddhist nation to choose a sport like archery since Buddhists have a profound reverence for all living things. Participating in a sport where the equipment is primarily designed for hunting or warfare seems a bit out of place. However, judging by the fact that nearly all villages in the Kingdom of Bhutan have an archery range, passion for the sport is not to be taken lightly.

Popularity of the sport can be traced all the way back to a 15th century legend. During this time, it is believed Lama Drukpa Kuenley, known affectionately as the “divine madman,” shot an arrow from Nangkartse in Tibet. Following the path of the arrow led him to Bhutan, land of the thunder dragon. Archery symbolism is present in Buddhist beliefs and often represents the offering of prayers.

Today the matches are a festival of brightly-costumed archers and spectators alike. In fact, the activity is centered as much around the pageantry of the festival as it is around the competition of hitting the bulls-eye. Archers go to great lengths to distract or demoralize their opponents—even going so far as to dance in front of the other’s target! This behavior is not just limited to the archers—the women in the crowd act as cheerleaders, shouting raucous and degrading comments about the other team’s heritage and sexual prowess. All of the hullabaloo is in jest, and no one is ruffled by it or takes much offense.

Nearly every village in Bhutan has an archery range.
Nearly every village in Bhutan has an archery range.

Wielding the traditional hand-carved bamboo bow (nowadays some use state-of-the-art compound bows), participants compete in teams of 15 players. Two points are given if the arrow hits any part of the target, three points for a bullseye, and if the arrow sticks in the ground within one arrow’s distance of the target, the team earns one point. The first team to score 25 points is declared the winner. To play, the archers are each given two shots during their turn. The field is set up like a horseshoe pitch, so team members shuttle between the targets in between shots. Not only is hitting the target difficult, but the walking back and forth across the pitch can be tiresome as well, because the small wooden targets are placed 140 meters apart! That’s nearly three times the distance of Olympic standards (a mere 50 meters) and probably why archers take the risk of taunting their rivals while standing in front of the target. The rival discouragement is a large part of the spectacle.

Archery is the only Olympic sport in which Bhutanese athletes compete. The Bhutanese have been involved in the games since 1984 and in the 2004 Olympics they made it to the second qualifying round. In the 2012 London Olympics, Bhutan sent two female archers, one of the smallest teams at the event. They remain hopeful that Olympic gold is in their future. For now, as in the past, the bowmen (and women!) from Bhutan continue to play for the love of the sport and the next chance to poke fun at their friends.

Backpackers Recall 1993 California Native Copper Canyon Trek

Last Christmas we attended a candelaria and bell-ringing event at the Centinella Adobe, an historical Spanish adobe located a few miles from The California Native. When we met the docent, Betty Keel, an attractive woman in her 80’s, she recalled having traveled on a back-packing trip with The California Native down to the bottom of Copper Canyon back in 1993. A few months later she came over to our office with her sister-in-law and hiking companion on the trip, Bee Jay Keel. They brought us a scrapbook with photos, made by the third guest on the trek, Barbara Boone.

We really enjoyed visiting with these delightful adventurous women and reminiscing about the many years we’ve been conducting tours in this wonderfully remote part of Mexico’s Sierra Madre mountains.

The "three caballeras" in the small town of Urique in the bottom of Copper Canyon.
The "three caballeras" in the small town of Urique in the bottom of Copper Canyon.

Loading up the burro for the day's journey.
Loading up the burro for the days journey.

Everything tastes better in camp.
Everything tastes better in camp.

ATMEX 2012 in Veracruz, Mexico

Last week I attended ATMEX, the Adventure Travel Event in the State of Veracruz, Mexico. It was a great opportunity to meet with adventure tour providers in Mexico and lay the groundwork for future partnerships to develop California Native tours to this beautiful region. We joined with Mexico Verde Expeditions and rafted down the Rio Antigua, zip-lined and mountain biked in the rainforest nearby the village of Jolcomulco. The State of Veracruz offers a plethora of historic and cultural destinations in addition to its wonderful opportunities for outdoor recreation. Please let me know if you are interested in joining us on future tours to the historic and wildly scenic State of Veracruz.

California Native President Lee Klein and Mexico's Minister of Tourism Gloria Guevara at ATMEX.
California Native President Lee Klein and Mexico's Minister of Tourism Gloria Guevara at ATMEX.

White water rafting on Mexico's Rio Antigua
White water rafting on Mexico's Rio Antigua with Mexico Verde Expeditions. California Native founder Lee Klein is the guy in front wearing sunglasses.

Reading About Copper Canyon

Some people like to read about the places in the world that they are planning on visiting while other folks prefer to be armchair travelers and visit these places vicariously in the comfort of their homes. What ever is your preference here are our recommendations for good reading materials on one of our favorite destinations: Mexico’s Copper Canyon.

Topping off our list is The Copper Canyon Companion. (We’re probably a bit prejudiced when it comes to this book since we wrote it.)

The Copper Canyon Companion The Copper Canyon Companion was written by the California Native staff as a reference for travelers to this unique destination. In its pages you will meet the Tarahumara Indians, who have lived in the remote mountain area for centuries. California Native’s guides share with you their personal memories and affection for these proud people who refused to be conquered by both the Spaniards and the modern world. The book takes you back in time and introduces you to the 17th-century conquistadors and priests who conquered and colonized the area, and the 19th-century Americans who left their mark in these rugged canyons. The book includes lots of useful information for travelers, including a sightseer’s log of the Railroad. Considering a trip to Copper Canyon? The Copper Canyon Companion will travel with you and give you an in-depth look into this unique region of Mexico’s Sierra Madres. Been there already? It’s a great souvenir.

There’s a lot of good reading about Copper Canyon and some of our other destinations. In the coming months we’ll highlight more books—stay tuned!

White Elephant Sale

Statues of White Elephants
Statues of White elephants guard the entrance to a temple in Myanmar.

In Myanmar (Burma), the white elephant is highly respected as a symbol of power and prosperity and so it was only natural that a few months ago Myanmar’s government warmly welcomed two newly found white elephants. At the same time, the country was awarded chairmanship of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations for 2014, and U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton’s visit ended 50 years of political isolation from the West. Coincidence? The people in Myanmar don’t think so.

The elephant has for centuries been a symbol of Southeast Asian countries. Maharajas sent them to battle like living tanks, and workmen used them as bulldozers. The rare “white” elephant, though, holds a special place in the lore of these countries.

A white elephant is unloaded
A white elephant is unloaded from a transport to take its place of honor near a temple in Myanmar.

While other elephants worked hard, white elephants were cherished by kings, kept in palaces, cared for by senior officials, and worried over constantly. Possession of these sacred beasts was very important. A king who had many white elephants would reign for a long time and his kingdom would prosper. If his white elephants died, it was an omen of disaster for the kingdom.

Burmese kings would hunt for these special beasts, and would present them to each other as marks of diplomacy. Sometimes they fought over them, but they always took great care of them—their rule depended on it.

As elephants were used less and less in warfare, elephant hunts became less common, and fewer white elephants were discovered. In Siam (now Thailand), the King decreed that any white elephant found must be given to him and he offered rewards for their discovery. Each time a white elephant was found, it was cause for public celebration.

When King Mongkut of Siam heard that America had no elephants, he offered to send several to President Lincoln, thinking that if conditions were right they would multiply and Americans would be able to “tame and use them as beasts of burden, making them of benefit to the country.” The President replied that the American climate was probably unsuitable, and Americans preferred to use steam power, but he thanked the king for his gift of two magnificent tusks.

Brahman texts list attributes which must be met to qualify the animal as a true “white” elephant—pearl eyes (the animal is usually an albino), white hoofs, a back which hangs down like the bough of a banana tree, white hairs on the body and tail, and ears which are larger than a regular elephant’s.

Today, in Laos, Cambodia, Viet Nam and Thailand, white elephants are pretty much nonexistent. In Myanmar, with the two new white elephants, the country now has at least five. They are considered sacred, and treated with the utmost respect and care. At certain times of the day, the public may view the elephants. No photos are allowed.

With its new found popularity, Myanmar is on its way to becoming a major tourist destination. Tourist numbers are going up and so are prices. Now is the time to visit this fascinating country while it is still pristine and take advantage of The California Native’s “White Elephant” Sale.

California Native, Ellen Klein, serving rice to monks in Myanmar.
California Native, Ellen Klein, serving rice to monks in Myanmar.

Travelers From Brazil Enjoy Mexico’s Copper Canyon

We appreciate it when our guests share their stories with us and allow us to post them on our blog. A few months ago Doris Beinhauer and Henry Adler from Rio de Janiero, Brazil, traveled with us on our Copper Canyon 11-day Independent Trip to the Canyon Bottom.

Hi Lee, Laurie and all the California Native team,

Just this week we have been talking with friends from Los Angeles about our trip to Copper Canyon and how much we enjoyed it. This little adventure turned out even better than I imagined.

We liked El Fuerte and the Hotel Torres del Fuerte. Chihuahua was also a real surprise.

Highlight of course was the trip from Creel to Batopilas. If we ever would visit again we would like to hike into the canyon, and if there is another time we shall surely contact you.

All the best from Rio de Janeiro,

Doris and Henry

Ruins of the Shepherd Hacienda
In the town of Batopilas, at the bottom of Copper Canyon, the ruins of the Shepherd Hacienda are a reminder of the time when this town was one of the richest silver mining cities in the world.

Do You Know the Way to San Jose?

San Jose, Costa Rica, that is. San Jose is located in Costa Rica’s central valley and is the nation’s capital. It is the starting place for our California Native Costa Rica Adventures.

Located at the center of the Americas, between Nicaragua and Panama, Costa Rica has become one of the world’s most popular destinations for Eco-tourism due to its fantastic biodiversity—it may contain as many as 6% of the world’s plant and animal species, and its friendly people. It is a delightfully peaceful little country which constitutionally abolished its army more than sixty years ago.

From its rain forests to its volcanoes and beaches it is a wonderful country to explore and we have been introducing people to Costa Rica for more than a quarter of a century. Our Nature Explorer Tours combine the best features of a guided tour with the flexibility of independent travel. We arrange everything just for you, so you can depart on any date. The tours are designed to maximize your time exploring the natural beauty of the country. Whether you want to raft down a thrilling jungle river or relax in a hammock it is all there for you. Please join us.

California Natives rafting in Costa Rica
California Native zip lining over the canopy in a Costa Rican rainforest.
Monkey in Costa Rica rain forest

Never Stop Traveling

Tarahumara lady and baby in Mexico's Copper Canyon
The Tarahumara inhabit the same region they have for centuries—the rugged Sierra Madre of northern Mexico, known as Copper Canyon.

A recent post on the blog “never stop traveling, the source for travelers 50 and beyond,” listed the top tourism destinations in Mexico, as reported by the Mexico Tourism Board.

They noted that although there has been much coverage by the US media of the crime situation in some areas of Mexico, millions of US and Canadian citizens visit Mexico each year, and many live there year-round.

Among the destinations listed as Top Ten are Copper Canyon, Yucatan and Chiapas, all places which The California Native has specialized in for the past thirty years. We would love for you to join us.

On the Road to Mandalay Where the Flyin’ Fishes Play–or Not

“On the Road to Mandalay, Where the flyin’ fishes play, An’ the dawn comes up like thunder outer China ’crost the bay.” – Rudyard Kipling
LLocated in Mingun (near Mandalay), the Hsinbyume Pagoda is built in circular terraces representing mountain ranges.
Located in Mingun (near Mandalay), the Hsinbyume Pagoda is built in circular terraces representing mountain ranges.

In 1892 Rudyard Kipling published Barrack Room Ballads, a collection of poems about the life of British soldiers stationed in colonial India. It included the poem “Mandalay,” in which a lovelorn soldier longs to return to Burma and his Burmese sweetheart. While the road to Mandalay may not necessarily lead to love, it does lead travelers to a fascinating experience of Myanmar’s culture and history.

The fabled city of Mandalay lies on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River. The last capital of Myanmar before the British took over in 1886, it is second only to Yangon (Rangoon) in size and lies in the center of the country. It was founded by King Mindon in 1857 in an empty area that, according to prophecy, would be the location of a town that would come into existence on the 2,400th jubilee of Buddhism. To fulfill this prophecy, the king moved his capital from Amarapura, dismantling the wooden buildings and royal palaces and loading them onto carts and elephants to relocate them seven miles south to Mandalay.

The city gets its name from Mandalay Hill, which rises more than 700 feet above the Mandalay Fort. Visitors can climb up two covered stairways that wind up the hill, stopping at the shrines, stupas and monasteries along the way. Near the top is a standing Buddha image pointing to the place where the city would be built according to the prophecy. Once on top, visitors are rewarded with sweeping views of the plains, the Palace and the Shan mountains in the distance.

The road to Mandalay is a route studded with ancient cities, where cars share the road with ox carts and markets teem with life. Although most of the significant buildings in the ancient royal capital of Amarapura were moved to Mandalay, some interesting structures still remain. The most picturesque is U Bein’s Bridge, the longest teak bridge in the world, which stretches three-quarters of a mile across Taungthaman Lake. A stroll across the busy bridge is a great way to experience the local ambiance. At one end of the bridge is the Maha Ganayon Kyaung monastery, where thousands of young monks live and study in a strictly disciplined setting. Each day at 11 a.m. they may be observed eating their main meal in complete silence.

A few miles south down the road is the ancient city of Ava (Inwa), which was the capital of the northern kingdom for almost 400 years, succeeding the nearby city of Sagaing. Both of these cities boast a number of interesting pagodas and historic sites.

One of the most interesting of the ancient cities on the road to Mandalay is Mingun, where in 1790 King Bodawpaya decided he would build the world’s largest pagoda. Despite employing thousands of slaves and prisoners to build it, he died before it was completed. What remains is the massive brick base that stands over 50 meters high. Although damaged by an earthquake, it is possible to climb the ruins for a wonderful view. The king also had a gigantic bell cast—weighing 90 tons, it hangs nearby and is the largest ringing bell in the world.

There is much to see on the road to Mandalay, but unlike the poem, there are no flying fishes and, alas, China is not across the bay.

Please join us on one of our California Native Myanmar Adventures.

El Fuerte Was the Capital of Arizona

Juan de Mendoza Luna, Viceroy of Mexico and Peru in 1610.
In 1610, the Viceroy of Mexico and Peru ordered a fort to be built on a hill overlooking the town now known as El Fuerte, the first stop on California Native tours of Copper Canyon.

In 1610, Juan de Mendoza y Luna, the Viceroy of Mexico and Peru, ordered that a riverside fort be erected on a hill overlooking the town of San Juan Bautista de Carapoa, to defend it against attacks by fierce Mayo, Zuaque and Tehueco Indians, and to guard the rich haul of silver from its many mines. Founded fifty years earlier by the Spanish conquistador Don Francisco de Ibarra, the town was renamed El Fuerte, “The Fort.”

In successive years, El Fuerte became a major trading post for gold and silver from the mines of Urique, Batopilas, and other Sierra Madre settlements and a station on Spain’s fabled Camino Real trade route. In 1824, after almost three centuries as the most important commercial and agricultural center in northern Mexico, El Fuerte became the capital of the territory which now makes up the Mexican states of Sinaloa and Sonora, and part of Arizona. After a few years, and a few wars, its administrative functions were taken over by Culiacán, Hermosillo and Phoenix.

El Fuerte today, with a population of around 30,000, is a quiet, picturesque colonial town, but the old fort still looks down on the quaint cobblestone streets as they wind past its historic church, mansions and shops, many dating back to colonial times. El Fuerte is also the starting point for most of The California Native’s journeys through the spectacular Copper Canyon.