Articles by Laurie Kraft

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The year 2009 is coming to a close. We are now at the end of November and the holidays are coming up fast, but it is not too late to make your plans for a wonderful holiday getaway. We do have some space left on our Christmas/New Years escorted tour to Mexico’s Copper Canyon where we will celebrate Christmas with the Tarahumara Indians and the owners of the Paraiso del Oso.

On December 23rd, we will be departing with a small group out of Los Angeles and Phoenix airports for an exciting tour into the canyon. The 11-day Ultimate tour spends nights in El Fuerte, Cerocahui, Divisadero, Creel, Batopilas, Chihuahua and a wooded area just outside San Juanito. As with all of our Copper Canyon tours, we ride the Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad for one of the most spectacular train rides in the Western Hemisphere. The train travels through the lowlands of Sinaloa State and up into the Sierra Madre Mountains, passing through 86 tunnels and crossing 37 bridges.

Some other highlights on this tour are the Cusarare and Basaseachic waterfalls, a day trip to the village of Urique, the “Lost Cathedral” just outside of the village of Batopilas located at the canyon bottom and the magnificent vista point which overlooks a whole series of intertwined “barrancas” (canyons).

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Now is the prime time to travel into Mexico’s Copper Canyon and as travelers make their way into the canyon, so does our book, The California Native Copper Canyon Companion.
The California Native Copper Canyon Companion
The book is a great tool to take along on any trip to Copper Canyon. It is filled with useful information, including lists of birds and plants, a table of mileage and distances, and a sightseer’s log of the Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad. Written by members of our California Native staff, the Companion is a compendium of the many of the stories and photographs of Copper Canyon which have appeared in our newsletter over the past decades.

In its pages, you will meet the Tarahumara Indians—the cave-dwelling indigenous people who have lived in this area for centuries, and our California Native guides share with you their personal memories and affection for these proud people who refused to be conquered by both the Spaniards and the modern world.

The stories will take you back in time and introduce you to the 17th-century conquistadors and priests who radically changed the history of the Americas, and the 19th-century Americans who left their mark—Alexander Shepherd, who developed the silver mines into some of the richest in the world, and Albert Kimsey Owen, who established a utopian colony at Topolobampo Bay and, along with Arthur Stilwell, conceived the fantastic rail line which traverses the area. There are also stories about heroes and villains—Father Miguel Hidalgo, the “Father of Mexico,” Emperor Maximilian, who was installed by France to rule the country, and Pancho Villa, hero or villain of the Revolution.

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View from the Copper Canyon train as it crosses the Rio Fuerte.
View from the Copper
Canyon train as it crosses
high above the Rio Fuerte.

Guests often ask why we run our Copper Canyon trips from west to east, beginning in El Fuerte and ending in Chihuahua, instead of the opposite direction. The answer is simple: It’s the best way to enjoy the sights!

One of the highlights of touring Copper Canyon is the ride on the Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad—the famous Copper Canyon train. One of the world’s most scenic train rides, the route climbs from sea level to over 8,000 feet, passing through 86 tunnels and crossing 37 bridges along the way.

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Nothing can compare to a fresh, hot, homemade tortilla. I remember as a kid, my mom would give us tortillas right off the griddle sprinkled with a little cinnamon, sugar and butter. They were heavenly and  simple to make (if you use the prepared flour).

Mayo Indian Lady Making Tortillas in Mexico's Copper Canyon
Mayo Indian lady making
tortillas in Mexico’s Copper
Canyon

When you order a tortilla in Spain or South America you’ll receive an omelette—layers of eggs, potatoes and seasonings. But in the U.S., we are familiar with the tortillas of Mexico, kind of flat bread or pancakes. Meals are served with, in or on tortillas made of corn or wheat flour. Tortillas are very versatile and can be wrapped around fillings to make burritos and enchiladas, folded and filled to make tacos, served flat like a plate for a tostada, baked into a bowl for salads, or served like bread with a meal. Since 1985, NASA shuttle missions have been using tortillas to solve their food handling problems and eliminate bread crumbs in the instrument panels.

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Christmas in Mexico’s Copper Canyon is a time of sharing and festivities. Nowhere is this more true than at the Hotel Paraiso del Oso. The rustic “Oso Lodge” is located in a beautiful valley just outside the town Cerocahui. All through the year, hotel owners Doug and Ana Maria Rhodes collect donations of gently-used toys and warm clothing and host a special Christmas celebration for the Tarahumara Indian children.

Guests visiting the lodge with The California Native on the 11-day Ultimate Adventure will enjoy a special Christmas Eve known as Noche-bueno (the Good Night). At 4 pm the hotel hosts the annual celebration at the Cerocahui Church. After a delicious dinner, Ana Maria’s serves her famous Christmas punch. Then, those wishing to join the Tarahumara Indians and mestizo community may attend the midnight mass, also known as La Misa del Gallo (Rooster’s Mass). Traditional Tarahumara dancing usually starts an hour or two before the mass, then recommences afterwards to make it an all-night celebration. As an old Spanish saying goes, “Esta noche es Noche-Buena, y no es noche de dormir” (Tonight is the Good Night, and it is not meant for sleeping).

As Christmas morning arrives, the celebration moves back to the Oso Lodge where local Tarahumara join the hotel guests for the piñata party. The native Tarahumara live in isolated ranchitos in the rugged mountains surrounding the hotel. They take turns swinging at the Christmas piñata until it explodes showering candy and small toys to the ground. The hotel is filled with laughter and glee as the children scramble to collect their treasures. Gifts from under the Christmas tree are handed out. As the locals return to their mountain ranchitos, guests with The California Native prepare for a day trip to the Barranca de Urique (Urique Canyon). In the evening after the excursion, guests enjoy a traditional turkey dinner with all the trimmings.

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Each year the California Native International Adventures invites travel agents to join them on a tour of Mexico’s Copper Canyon to experience the wonders of this remarkable destination. This year our group consisted of 20 travel agents and companions, a tour conductor, an assistant and a nurse. Not only did the group learn about the canyons, the Indians and the hotels—they had a blast.Basaseachic Falls in Mexico's Copper Canyon

We started our trip with a flight from Los Angeles to Los Mochis, then on to the colonial town of El Fuerte where we overnighted in a wonderful boutique hotel, the Hotel Torres. There we enjoyed a magnificent dinner, then got to know each other and the Torres Family, our hosts at the hotel. After a good nights sleep we boarded the Chihuahua al Pacifico railroad for the phenominal ride up into the Sierra Madre Mountains.

The Copper Canyon train is considered to be one of the most spectacular rail routes in the Western Hemisphere. It passes through 86 tunnels and crosses over 36 bridges as it climbs to over 8000 feet in the Sierra Madre Occidental Mountains. At one point the train makes a 180° turn inside a tunnel and it was amazing to see the canyon suddenly appear on the opposite side of the train. As the train climbs higher into the mountains the scenery becomes more spectacular. The vegetation changes from semi-arid farmland to oak woodland. After several hours of a most enjoyable ride we arrived at the Bahuichivo Station and transferred to a lovely ranch-styled hotel, the Paraiso del Oso. This hotel, nestled in a beautiful valley just outside the town of Cerocahui, became our home for the next two days. The owners, Doug (Diego) and Ana Maria Rhodes made us feel like family. The home cooked meals were wonderful and the discada (a meal prepared on a disc over a fire pit) was a special treat.
Travel Agent Guests in Mexico's Copper Canyon

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The California Native International Adventures is proud to welcome the Hotel Torres del Fuerte to their line of preferred Copper Canyon hotels. The newly restored hotel is in the colonial town of El Fuerte, the gateway to Mexico’s Copper Canyon.Hotel Torres del Fuerte in Mexico's Copper Canyon

This family-owned boutique hotel has been in the Torres family for nearly 200 years. Some of the structures date back to the time of the town’s original settlers 400 hundred years ago. This impressive property is conveniently located within a one-block stroll to the town’s plaza.

Upon stepping through the front archway, a member of the Torres family is there to greet you and show you around the hacienda. The friendly welcome and beautiful courtyard are just the beginning of a wonderful visit. There are 25 enchanting rooms, each uniquely decorated with fine art, antiques and materials from around the world (China, Morocco and Paris to name a few). The eclectic décor of the hotel gives it the feel of a home belonging to a rich silver trader who had, over the years, brought treasures back from his world travels.

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